. . . look for me in Bergen; if winter, look for me in Cape
Town. Aside from our Seattle, which Ann
and I love, (from which and from whom I have no intention of running) these are
wonderland cities which we ‘discovered’ in September and May. Seattle lies at 48° north; Bergen even
further, at 60°. Cape Town is not so near
its pole: 34° south, roughly equivalent to Monterey, But surprisingly, Cape
Town has the narrowist temperature range of the three, and is very temperate.
And it’s also the driest of the three. Bergen, like Seattle, is known for its rainy days.
If Seattle is forging the future (Amazon, Microsoft, Fred Hutch, UW, and the rest), Cape Town is the
future. Yes, Bergen also has a future because
Norway is welcoming the stranger, the refugees whose courage and determination
to make a new life will, in time, give Bergen and Oslo an energy boost to growth.
But in Cape Town today one sees 3rd world future – dynamic, well and cleanly governed by the
Democratic Alliance (which is challenging the ANC and now is to govern Jo’burg
as well,) developing a middle class, and populating its universities and
technical colleges with young, ambitious Africans (of all colors.) Yes, it has
its issues, particularly among its cohort of unemployed and uneducated youth. Like most of Africa, just too many
youngsters. Nonetheless, Cape Town can
be a model for Africa.
For the visitor?
Bergen. Cape Town. Seattle.
In that order. Or , , , maybe
it’s Cape Town, Bergen, Seattle , , , tough call.
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| Bergen's Bryggen Waterfront |
The waterfront of Bergen takes honors; would that we
re-develop Alaska Way into as pleasant a place to dine and walk and see the sea
at work. (Oslo’s waterfront is even
better.) Cape Town’s is more like what
San Francisco aspired to have but CT does it better.
Dining? Cape Town,
hands down. Cape Town is home to some of
the world’s outstanding restaurants, and remarkably affordable. Plus those fine, inexpensive South African
wines. Bergen’s best restaurants are good
but outrageously expensive and with limited wine lists. Seattle offers a wide variety of fine
options, and good wines from all over the world, but all more pricey than Cape
Town’s.
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| Bergen from Floyen |
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| Table Mountain loons over Cape Town |
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| Hiking on Mt. Floyen |
Vistas? Bergen’s Mt.
Fløyen is lovely, especially since up top is a parkland forest of beautiful
trails and ponds, but Cape Town’s Table Mountain is truly awesome – higher,
steeper, more rugged. And unlike
Seattle’s Cascades, Bergen’s and Cape Town’s mountains are right there in your
face, looming over their cities.
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| Cape Town from atop Table Mountain |
Hotels? Cape
Town. The Victoria is the finest I’ve
ever stayed in, a truly boutique hotel.
Bergen? Limited choice; we
enjoyed The Park primarily because of the charm of its owners and staff. And nothing tops Norwegian breakfast
buffets! Seattle’s hotels? Pretty much garden variety American lodging,
though I must admit to being out of touch with the local hotel scene; maybe
there’s something out there hiding away in some nook or cranny I know not of.
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| One of Munch's paintings of Feelings |
Art, music, theatre?
Seattle is unparalleled – one of only five US cities with world-class
opera, symphony, ballet, chamber and theatres galore. Bergen, for its size, is
remarkable, with its four Koda museums, Grieg Hall, the University, continual music festivals and
Troldhaugen. In Bergen, I came to see
that Munch is so much more than just The
Scream. Cape Town is too busy
growing up and assimilating this new South Africa; the arts and culture will
come.
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| A park in central Bergen |
Parks, open spaces and walkable downtowns? Bergen – beautiful. Of course, smaller towns have an advantage,
but Bergen takes full advantage and does it right.
People? The world
could well become a bit more Norwegian.
They not merely welcome the stranger, they relish in strangers and
shower one with interest, care, empathy, and consideration. Hospitality in-deed. And they speak better
English than we do!
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| Yes! African penguins |
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| A Sognefjorden passage |
Nearby attractions?
Seattle has its Mts. Rainier, Adams, St. Helens, Baker; access to
Vancouver and Victoria; the San Juans and Gulf Islands; and nearby skiing and
the Methow. Bergen offers the stunning Sognefjorden. Cape Town offers Kirstenbosch, the most
beautiful botanical gardens we know of; the sobering history of Robben Island;
the lovely wine country of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek; and penguins! Yes, African penguins!. But Seattle takes honors; home is where the
heart is.
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| Franschhoek vinyards |
Accessibility? Well,
Seattle is right here for us, and an easy reach for you from out of town. Bergen is surprisingly accessible and
affordable if one shops around, especially though Reykjavik, Yes, Cape Town is a long way away – ten and a
half hours from Amsterdam, another eleven hours from Seattle; so you don’t go
for a weekend.
Bergen and Cape Town -- two most attractive cities at
opposite ends of the earth. Both with
much to offer the world. Look for me one
place or the other --
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| Bergen waterfront |
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